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Gay Iran: How safe is it for LGBTQ travelers?

This post was co-written with the awesome gay travel blogger Michael Demmons of who visited Iran as a solo LGBTQ traveler and shares his first-hand experience in this blog post.

Iran’s human rights record is dire. There’s no sugar-coating that. When it comes to LGBTQ rights, Iran is as bad as it can get! Most people who follow the news will have heard about the terrible punishments that Iran has imposed for people even suspected of being gay!

Let’s make one thing clear, our intention is not to promote gay travel to Iran. Iran is not a gay travel destination and it won’t be for the foreseeable future! However, for adventurous LGBTQ travelers who are already set on the idea of visiting Iran, they should be aware of the law and follow the tips we set out in this guide so they can experience a safe trip in Iran. 

In this article, we explore these arguments in detail as well as giving comprehensive guidance and safety tips based on Michael’s first-hand experience to fellow LGBTQ travelers who also want to visit Iran.

Gay dating apps such as Grindr or Scruff are blocked in Iran. Before heading off, make sure you get a VPN which will not only give you full access to all your favourite apps and websites, which are otherwise blocked in Iran, but you will also be surfing the Net anonymously.

Gay Iran: How safe is it for LGBTQ travelers?

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Iranian

Gay rights in Iran

Homosexuality is very illegal in Iran and can even lead to execution. Various human rights organizations have reported that between 4,000-6,000 gay men and lesbian women have been executed in Iran since 1979. As recently as September 2019, gay men have been publicly executed in Iran and the government staunchly endorses it!

Transgender people fare no better. The only “bright”(!!) side is that , but only if accompanied by a gender reassignment surgery. Surprisingly, surgery can even be partially or fully funded by the government! This has made Iran the second most common country to carry out the most gender reassignment surgeries in the world after Thailand.

Is Iran safe for gay citizens? Probably not in general.

Is Iran safe for gay tourists? That’s a little more complicated to answer…

Gay rights in Iran

Is Iran safe for gay travelers?

I was in Iran as a solo gay traveler for 10 days as part of a guided tour. My husband didn’t come with me on this trip. I personally felt safe the entire time. I walked around the cities at night and I even spoke to fellow western guests on my tour about my husband (though I was very selective in what I talked about and to whom I spoke with).

To bluntly answer the question, how safe will you be in Iran as an LGBTQ traveler depends on how far back into the closet you’re willing to go…as long as you avoid all PDAs, keep the rainbow flags at home, set your social media settings to private or even consider deactivating them temporarily, “then you’ll be just fine!!”

The bottom line is that if you choose to visit Iran, you can be gay; nobody needs to know… you just can’t act gay. It’s going to feel a bit like the days before you came out – telling little lies to cover for other little lies.

But if you want to visit Iran, it’s just what you have to do!

You may feel like you’re betraying who you are. And that’s sort of true. But in this case, you’re going to visit a country, which is so rich with history and beauty that not many people get to see. For that reason alone, I think it’s totally worth it!

Is Iran safe for gay travelers?

Getting an Iranian visa

When you fill out your visa application form, one of the questions is, “Are you married?”, to which you should check “no”.

Yes, it’s a lie, but if you’re serious about going, then you don’t have a choice.

And to be frank, Iran doesn’t recognize marriage between gay couples anyway, so it’s not really a lie to them (if that makes you feel better!) So tick the “single” box. You may even wish to leave your wedding rings at home if you wear them.

For more information, check out my in-depth post about how to get an Iranian visa if you’re Canadian or American.

Check your social media

Be aware of what’s on your social media before you go to Iran. Have you been critical of the Iranian government on Facebook? Do you post a lot of gay-themed photos or stories on Instagram? Do you re-tweet anti-Iran regime news stories or pro-LGBTQ links?

If you do, then you need to be very careful. You don’t want this to come up while applying for an Iranian tourist visa.

During the visa process, I was never asked about social media. Recently though, I was contacted by a gay couple who told me that they were asked for their Facebook and Twitter profiles during the visa application process. Rohit from this gay couple asked:

“So, while we’re applying for the Iranian visa, they are asking for our Facebook / Twitter profile. That had me worried, as we have photos on there that show us being married.”

Checking into hotels

When you check into your hotel as a gay couple, the likelihood is that no one is going to ask you if you’re a couple. They’re just going to assume you’re two men traveling together. No one is going to question you about it!

Having said that, they will likely put you in a room with two separate beds, so you have to be willing to either sleep apart or push your beds together.

It’s also worth noting that of the 4 hotels I stayed at, only one of them was what I would consider fairly soundproof. If you are going to engage in any hotel room fun, keep that in mind!

So should you boycott Iran?

I am generally opposed to people who say you should boycott countries for human rights issues. Why? Because when it comes to issues like gay rights, I think it’s far more productive to travel to these countries, find gay-friendly people and businesses (if you can), and support them with your tourist cash. Check out the Nomadic Boys‘ article about , in which they explored this argument in detail.

Plus, in many countries with anti-LGBTQ policies, human rights violations against gay people generally happen with the citizens of those countries – not tourists.

I was recently in Iran for about 10 days. I really didn’t get the sense that gay issues were a top concern for the people who lived there. Iranians are mostly concerned about inflation and putting food on their tables. They probably don’t give much thought to gay people – if they think of them at all.

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Keep the fact that’re gay to yourself

The second part was a little harder. Several Iranians asked me, “Are you married?” I simply said “no” (and hoped they didn’t notice the indent on my ring finger from my wedding ring, which I left behind).

Did I feel like I was betraying my relationship a bit in this respect? Yes. I didn’t like to say I wasn’t married. But the reality is, you don’t want to have to answer the follow-up questions because those answers will necessarily be lies.

Saying, “Yes! I am. My husband is at home,” might very well be OK with some younger Iranians, but you don’t want to take the chance that you’re talking to a (rare) religious fundamentalist who will make trouble for you.

For couples, refrain from telling people you’re together

If you’re traveling as a couple, it’s obviously a little more difficult to follow any of the three rules. Again it’s a decision you’re going to have to make before you go – one that might involve breaking a few “couples” habits. If you’re traveling alone, as I did, it’s easy.

Holding hands while walking down the street, the selfie while one gives the other a peck on the cheek…sadly these are the habits you need to steer clear from during your trip in Iran.

I joined an  (which I highly all gay travelers heading to Iran to check out) and saw a post from a young man in Australia wondering if he and his partner would have issues. Their answer to the Australian guy was an overwhelming “no”, but on condition that he follow the rules summarised above.

Consider temporarily deactivating your profile

Personally, I would go farther than that. Deactivate your Facebook profile before you apply for the visa and reactivate it when you get home. Also, delete any tweets and Instagram posts that are critical of Iran or are super gay-themed.

If you want to go to Iran, you have to do what you have to do…!

Stefan Arestis

Stefan is the co-founder, editor, and author of the gay travel blog As a travel nerd, he has explored more than 80 countries across 5 continents. What he loves the most about traveling is discovering the local gay scene, making new friends, and learning new cultures. His advice about LGBTQ travel has been featured in Gaycation Magazine, Gaycities, Gay Times, Pink News, and Attitude Magazine. He has also written about gay travel for other non-gay-specific publications including Lonely Planet, The New York Times, The Guardian, and The Huffington Post. Stefan is also a qualified lawyer, having practiced as a commercial property litigator in London for over 10 years. He left his lawyer days behind to work full time on Nomadic Boys with his husband Sebastien. Find out more .

Bro,I am an we here have many homophobic people but not all of example i am gay(also transgender),and my family dont have any problem with telling people with religious beliefs should be avoided. (You may called homosexual or things you don’t maybe they make fun of u or say that u r criminal.) after all, the younger generation will have no problem with LGBT u don’t have to flirt in public,do u?I prefer Tehran, Shiraz, Ahvaz, Mashhad and Isfahan for come here,we’ll be ’s not like that we want kill ya.

Oh your reports is trebly wrong dear.Ofcourse homosex is illegal in you can travel with your husband or partner(without saying about it) as singles you can make romantic too publicalyBut you can do it specially in graeter teh cities are religious like qom and mashhad and romantic act is rudeness there even about hetrosex can freely travel in iran and even make love with your partner in a private roomLet me ask a you sex with your part in streets at your homecountry? ofcourse social security forces checks your somedia against us gov that checks tourists social can take pics in most places with your hus never forget this you re in a different country with differnt traditions.thankyou so much to advertising iran in your sexual you…

We strongly advise all LGBTQ travellers going to Iran follow the safety tips set out in this article, as well as their government’s Foreign Office (or equivalent) formal guidance!

I visited Iran for a month with my boyfriend last year, and it was completely fine – more than that, it was one of my best travelling experiences!Of course, as a couple, you can’t really display affection and it might not be wise to tell people you are a couple while in there – as you correctly point out in your article. That being said, we were also pretty lucky to be visiting friends that knew we were a couple and it was absolutely fine with them and with their friends. We were also introduced to some local gay guys and even saw a couple openly (yet discreetly) kissing and holding hands at an artsy restaurant. From my impression, it feels like attitudes are fast changing in Iran, even if the political situation remains complex, to say the least.

Hey JU thanks for your message. What a wonderful and inspiring experience to read about! I hope progressive change continues in Iran.

Great article. I travelled Iran solo last year and was amazed with the friendliness of everyone. I had people come up to me in the streets asking to show me around and come to parties. I maintained that I was straight and single the whole time, even though I believe the friends I made wouldn’t mind. They all said they’d never met a gay person in their life.

Incredible isn’t it? We can’t wait to visit one day 🙂

Hi, I applied once for my Iran visa through the MFA website, but I was rejected without any reason, what can I do now?

Hi Miranda – have you tried giving the Embassy a call to find out?

Hello, Bonjour and Welcome to our travel blog. We are Stefan and Sebastien a French/Greek gay couple from London. Together, we have been travelling the world for over 10 years. Nomadic Boys is our gay travel blog showcasing all our travel adventures as a gay couple.

How to Stay Safe Whilst Traveling?

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How to Stay Safe Whilst Traveling?

As gay travelers, safety is our #1 priority! This is why we’ve put together our Ultimate Travel Safety Checklist for LGBTQ travelers. Sign up to our newsletter and get free access to it. No spam. Never. Not ever. Just fun and interesting blog posts delivered straight to your inbox.

Thank you! You have successfully joined our subscriber list. Now check your email to download our gay travel safety checklist ?

Moreover, it’s important to remember that you’re going there on vacation – not to advocate for gay rights or to live out your life as you would if you were at home. You’re going to visit Persepolis and Tehran and Shiraz, not to participate in a parade.

That said, you have some decisions to make before you go.

Before I embarked on my trip, one of the main concerns of my friends and family was that I would be a gay guy traveling to a country with such strict laws against it.

My usual response was to laugh and say, “Well, I don’t intend to make out with guys in the street.” It was my way of setting the other person and, to a certain extent, myself, at ease.

But when it comes right down to it, you’re just going on vacation.

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